Just like Her Majesty the Queen, The Chester Grosvenor hotel is an institution here in the city of Chester.
This iconic place is steeped in history and heritage. It has recently entered a brand-new chapter in its epic story with the arrival of a dynamic young chef Elliot Hill, taking over from the revered and hugely respected Simon Radley. Elliot has taken the reigns of all aspects of the food and dining experiences at The Chester Grosvenor, particularly the newly refurbished Arkle restaurant.
Arkle is named after the 1957 Irish thoroughbred racehorse, famous for winning three consecutive Cheltenham Gold Cups in a glittering career. Arkle was bred by Mary Baker of Malahow House, County Dublin, and owned by Anne Grosvenor, Duchess of Westminster, hence the naming of the restaurant.
It is now Elliot who is the custodian of such an important element of the city (and the county’s) burgeoning dining scene, so we were delighted to receive an invitation recently to experience it for ourselves. I have followed Elliot’s meteoric rise to culinary fame for some time, so personally, I am delighted that he has landed back in his home city in such a prestigious position.
If I had to describe the tasting menu at the Arkle, I could do so in just one word. Exquisite. The Grosvenor team has made a significant investment into the all-new Arkle, and the results are quite spectacular. This investment is not just financial. The entire team has had their say in how the Arkle should re-emerge after the pandemic, and Refined Dining seems to describe it very well.
After beautiful drinks and canapes in the bar, we started our tasting menu and wine flight with the most delicious bread selection, baked in-house by Barry, who has been baking at The Chester Grosvenor for over 25 years.
The first course of native lobster with Isle of Wight tomatoes, elderflower and caviar was simply stunning. Beverage Manager Boris paired this with a 2018 Gusbourne rosé made in a Champagne-style from Kent which was a magical combination, and certainly set the tone of what was to follow.
‘Peas and Pods’ was our next course, with whipped scrambled egg, lardo and mustard. There was a lovely added surprise with this dish, aside from the perfect balance of flavours and decadence. Boris paired this course with a fabulous Grüner Veltliner from Austria (2019 Sepp Moser Fundamental) and the acidity cut through the richness of the whipped egg perfectly.
The next dish was another triumph (my favourite dish), and very close to the chef’s heart as it celebrated some favourite flavours of his late father. Tatws Pum Munud (5-minute potatoes in Welsh) tasted so incredibly special; Potatoes cooked for 5 minutes in eel stock with slow-cooked pig cheek, smoked eel and pickled Granny Smith. Elliot came to our table to grate over the truffle for a touch of luxury, and so good to see him for a little foodie chat. Boris teamed this up with another stunning wine – 2018 Clos Du Val Chardonnay from Nappa Valley. It’s a very close call, but I think this was my favourite wine of the night too.
The fish course of blanc of wild turbot, Scottish mussels, clams and sea herbs was beyond elegant, and the pairing of a 2020 Granbazan Etiqueta Ambar, Albarino, Rias Baixas from Spain, was excellent.
I absolutely love lamb and hogget, so the next course of Herdwick hogget, English asparagus, morels, sheep’s yoghurt and wild garlic was fabulous. Boris had paired this dish with a wonderful red from the Azores Wine Company (2019 Volcanico), which I loved just as much as the dish itself.
The cheese course was next, and this is where you can either choose a dish of two blues with buckwheat, figs and fresh Haughton honey (which is very locally produced), or you can choose a selection from the cheese trolley, which as you can imagine, is simply the best of the best. Boris served a gorgeous port alongside, from his own selection.
An almond, cucumber and fennel palate cleanser was next (which was lovely), followed by another choice of either Valrhona chocolate with Glenmorangie, orange and praline – or Gariguette strawberries with clotted cream and Daresbury marigold to finish. Phil had the chocolate with a 2008 Chianti Classico from Tuscany, and I had the strawberries with a Vino Santo from Trentino. Both were the perfect end to a perfect dining experience (a plant-based tasting menu is also available).
I would like to say a special thank you to the entire team. Boris the Beverage Manager (a true professional who honed his craft within the cellars of The Chester Grosvenor), Aga the Restaurant Manager, Patryk the Sommelier and Kim, Georgia and Katie who were all an absolute delight. And, of course, Chef Elliot Hill, who is a true gentleman and a hugely talented chef.
Arkle is a must-visit for every food and drink loving Cestrian, and the relaxed ambience and softer interior are a treat for any occasion. Everything about it is luxurious, comfortable and incredibly welcoming, and you really don’t need to wait for a special celebration to enjoy it.
Thank you to all, we cannot wait to return.
